The C&H Precision plates are designed, manufactured, and shipped from our small family-owned business in Coastal Georgia. Each plate is precision machined to the tightest tolerances on HAAS CNC machines and each plate goes through multiple quality checks before shipping to our customers.
Thickness: V4 MIL / LEO Plates are .095″ to .099″ thick
Material: Plates are made from Mild grade steel. All mounting hardware is Stainless Steel
Finish: Plates are MIL-SPEC Type III Hard Anodized – Black
Qty 1 – Optic Plate
Qty 2 – M3 Plate Mounting Screws
Qty 2 – 6-32 RMR Mounting Screws
Qty 2 – 6-32 Holosun Mounting Screws
Nathan Hoxworth (verified owner) –
The plate will do the job, but it’s not quite what I expected. Caveat being, it’s my partially my own failure to read.
I thought this steel plate also used the steel T-nut system for more thread engagement and easy replacement if you accidentally mess up the threads. This third benefit of T-nuts is the posts protrude through the optic screw holes, creating two additional points of contact with the optic and limiting movement. This plate does not use that system, and I missed that in the description (it’s advertised correctly here, my fault). You only get as many threads as the thickness of the plate allows, which is always my biggest hesitation and why I always come to CHPWS first. Aluminum plates can bend easier than steel, so I thought I was getting the rigidity of the steel plate and the extra thread engagement of the T-nuts.
The Forward Controls Designs plate fits the RMR more snuggly than this plate and is the same style, thread engagement is the thickness of the plate. My FCD plate has zero detactable movement in the RMR before screws are installed, requiring a tug to separate the optic form the plate. The CHPWS plate allows a small amount of front-to-rear and rotational play prior to installing screws. In addition, the RMR screws provided with this plate don’t use the entire depth of the plate for thread engagement, They are too short. Yes, I was using the RMR screws and not the Holosun screws. I stripped the starter threads on an RMR screw before it even snugged, the factory-applied thread locker on the screw provided enough resistance with such little threads engaged at that point that the screw was toast before it even snugged up to the optic body.
I also prefer to apply my own thread locker real time, similar to the official instructions CHPWS links you to through a QR code in the package. Pre-dried thread locker can give you false torque values as you’re getting resistance from the thread locker itself. I’ve had issues with Holosun screws that come this way not holding snug, for either that reason or poor quality thread locker. The 509T screws bolt being the biggest offender. Insuring quality thread locker is another reason I prefer to use my own. CHPWS isn’t the only one doing this, though, so can’t really fault them there, just an observation. Luckily CHPWS gives you three of every screw. I ended up using the screws that came with my V1.0 cut FCD plate and they were a touch longer, utilizing the full thread depth of the plate without allowing over penetration through the bottom. Thread engagement is the name of the game, so I honestly either recommend the CHPWS aluminum plate with the T-nuts, or if you want this style steel plate, FCD does it better IMO.
All that said, I’ve not seen any complaints of these plates failing. My goal is peace of mind. All this may not matter to you. This is my backup configuration, so I’m going to run it despite my opinions. I still love CHPWS as a company and will continue purchasing their T-nut plates and Acro/509t plates in the future.
Jackie Diles (verified owner) –
The adapter plate was perfect, but the customer service was noon existent. I sent two emails in regards to a question I had about installation. I received no response and figured it out myself.
C&H Precision –
Jackie, we sincerely apologize for how long it took someone to get back to you. Our email traffic has been significantly higher since the beginning of the year. My customer service team has been working many nights and weekends to address all inquiries, questions, and concerns in the order they came in. I again apologize for how long it took, please respond to the email I sent you earlier this week so I can make this right.
Customer Service Manager
jasontt350z (verified owner) –
Awesome plate!! If you have the PDP with the version 2 cutout (not just flat on the bottom, more cutouts for grip) this is the way to go. I ordered this and the plate directly from Walther at about the same time. I put the Walther plate on and it seemed plenty fine and held zero fine. I got this plate and noticed it had a lip on it to lock the optic in better. Put this one on and it fits tighter in the cutout (perfect actually), has more grooves to lock the optic in place better, and has a lip in the front to completely lock your optic in and make a perfect, seamless fit.
I’m sure the mount from Walther would do just fine but if you want 100% confidence knowing your optic is mounted as secure as possible, then buy this one. This is the way to go for the best and most secure mount. Worth every penny.